One of the great marketing promises, especially in selling fine wine, is the claim of authenticity. The idea that a certain wine still is fully in accordance with the original nature and quality of the wine in question. The suggestion is then, that the wines are something like ‘identical’. So being made from grapes which were also initially used, still expressing the native terroir, as well as the original style of vinification. The idea behind it is that the one who is drinking the wine experiences a constant overall taste when drinking the wine in question over the various years of production. Going back to the question ‘Does authentic wine exist?’, we need to find out if it is indeed the wine itself that is authentic.
In silent observation of flavors and aromas,
we build a deeper connection with the wine.
Let’s first go back to the word ‘authentic’. As a start, we can determine it is derived from the Greek word ‘authentes’ meaning ‘principle’ or ‘genuine’. So authentic wine can be defined as ‘original’ or ‘from undisputed origin’. This immediately creates a dilemma, because the different annual lots of a certain wine are by definition different as they annually result from other grapes, water and nutrients as well as slightly different vilifications. Making its origin only undisputed as far as it is one and the same (annual) lot. Meaning: this variation of true origin over the years, can never result in fully authentic or completely identical wines over the years.
So with wine, the attributed authenticity of that wine can only be relative. The process of winemaking might remain relatively constant, but the outcomes depend on a multitude of variables. All affect the character of the wine. Now how then is it possible that a new release of the wine in question, made from new grapes, in a climate that varies from year to year, and sometimes even from partially different areas, can be qualified as authentic?
Each glass of wine holds an assortment of experiences waiting to be embraced.
As it’s never the wine itself which is authentic, because each lot finally has its own characteristics, we need to focus on something different. What might come closest to something authentic when drinking wine, is the experience one has in terms of more or less the same tasting perception. The act of tasting results in experiences in our mind, created by signals that our senses have perceived and our nerves have transmitted to our brain. This experience is the total of seeing, smelling, (mouth) touching, savoring and – especially when sparkling – even hearing as well as thinking about it. All these perceived impressions combined create a construct in our mind about the overall sensation. This we could say, is the experienced impression. But can this truly be a reflection of the authenticity of the wine?
Here we face the same issue regarding the wine itself. Also, a perception as such can’t be identical as any perception is unique at least in terms of timing, so having at least various circumstances and influences, including the taster’s physical and mental constitution at the various moments of tasting. Making any perception as such authentic, but never identical to a prior one. This means the authenticity of a perception isn’t a constant attribute, but always a relative perception.
Let the wine engage your senses
and lose yourself in the journey of uncorking happiness.
For that reason ‘authentic wine’ is literally speaking a misnomer. It only exists once in each lot of wine, but when this wine is consumed the authenticity disappears with it. The same accounts for the tasting perception of the wine. Also, this only exists once and vanishes when the wine is consumed, where at most it leaves behind a change-sensitive memory.
So all of this makes clear that selling wine as authentic is indeed a marketing trick. It is like the mystery of all of existence: it’s all in the mind.
Good vibes!
Corné van Nijhuis
World’s first self-declared Vinosopher
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